Types of Sewing Machine Stitches and When to Use Them

On this page (9 sections)

1. What are the main types of sewing machine stitches?
2. How do you choose among the types of sewing machine stitches?
3. Which stitch works best for seams and repairs?
4. Which stitch can finish a raw fabric edge?
5. How do stitch length and needle choice affect the result?
6. Which sewing machines offer useful stitch choices?
7. How should you set up and care for a stitch?
8. What common stitch mistakes should you avoid?
9. Which sewing machine stitch should you choose?

The main types of sewing machine stitches include straight, zigzag, stretch, blind hem, buttonhole, and decorative stitches. Choose one by the fabric and the job: joining a seam, finishing an edge, hemming, or adding visible detail.

Most home sewing uses a small group of stitches. Learn what each does, then check your machine’s stitch chart and manual for its symbol and settings.

What are the main types of sewing machine stitches?

The main types of sewing machine stitches are straight, zigzag, stretch, blind hem, buttonhole, and decorative stitches. Each is designed for a different task, from joining fabric to finishing an edge or adding decoration.

How does a straight stitch work?

A straight stitch makes a simple line and is the usual choice for seams in woven fabric. Use it for garment seams, basic repairs, topstitching, and gathering.

Line up the fabric edges and follow the seam allowance in your pattern. Backstitch at the beginning and end when your pattern or repair instructions call for it.

When should you use a zigzag stitch?

A zigzag stitch moves the needle from side to side as the fabric feeds. It can help limit fraying on raw edges, sew over elastic, or add some give to a seam.

A narrow zigzag can work on a stretch seam, while a wider stitch covers more of an edge. Start with a small width and length on a scrap, then adjust until the stitches catch the edge without pulling the fabric out of shape.

What is a stretch stitch for?

A stretch stitch uses a pattern that can give with knit fabric. Depending on the machine, it may look like a lightning bolt or a row of small angled stitches.

Use the stretch stitch shown in your manual for knit seams, such as a T-shirt side seam. If your machine doesn’t have one, a narrow zigzag is a practical alternative.

When is a blind hem stitch useful?

A blind hem stitch catches only a small part of the folded fabric on the visible side, keeping most of the stitching hidden. Use it for trousers, skirts, or curtains when you want a less visible hem.

Press and fold the hem as directed, then arrange the fabric according to your machine’s guide. A blind hem foot can help keep the fold in position.

What does a buttonhole stitch do?

A buttonhole stitch makes a reinforced opening for a button. Some machines sew the buttonhole in one step, while others use a process you control.

Follow your machine’s instructions and use the buttonhole foot if one is required. Test on fabric with the same layers and interfacing as the project, then check that the opening fits the button.

When do decorative and heirloom stitches make sense?

Decorative stitches make visible patterns for borders, appliqué edges, and accents. Heirloom stitches can add a delicate detail to suitable projects.

Use them where you want the stitching to show. Test first, since some designs need a stabilizer or a particular fabric weight to lie flat.

How do you choose among the types of sewing machine stitches?

Choose a stitch by what the seam needs to do: hold fabric together, flex, finish an edge, create a hem, or add detail. The fabric matters too, because woven cotton and stretchy jersey place different demands on a seam.

If you’re learning the controls, how to use a sewing machine covers the first steps. For help setting the distance between stitches, see what stitch length to use.

Which stitch works best for seams and repairs?

Use a straight stitch for most seams and simple repairs on woven fabric. A medium stitch length is a common starting point, but your fabric and pattern may call for a different setting.

Shorter stitches can help secure small areas, while longer stitches can make gathering easier. Test on a matching scrap before changing the setting on a finished garment.

For knit fabric, try a stretch stitch or narrow zigzag. Pull the test seam gently to check that the stitches flex without breaking or puckering.

Uneven stitches can come from threading problems as well as stitch choice. If your stitches loop or snag, review how to thread a Brother sewing machine and check your manual before changing several settings at once.

Which stitch can finish a raw fabric edge?

A zigzag or overcasting stitch can help limit fraying by covering the fabric edge. Choose an option your machine offers, and follow the manual for the correct presser foot if one is needed.

Keep the edge flat as you sew. If the needle swings beyond the fabric, reduce the width or reposition the edge so the zigzag covers it without missing the fabric.

For a neater finish, fold the raw edge under before stitching, or choose a seam finish that suits how visible the seam will be and how much wear it gets.

How do stitch length and needle choice affect the result?

Stitch length controls how far the fabric moves between stitches, changing how close together they sit. Start with the pattern or manual setting, then test on a scrap and adjust if the fabric puckers or the seam looks loose.

Use a needle suited to the fabric and thread so the machine can form stitches correctly. Check the sewing machine needle size chart when switching materials.

A presser foot can also affect how the fabric feeds and how close you can sew to an edge. The guide to sewing machine presser feet explains common foot types and what they help you do.

Which sewing machines offer useful stitch choices?

A machine with more stitches suits projects that use those options; for everyday seams, a smaller selection may be enough. These Brother models range from 27 to 165 built-in stitches, with differences in selection controls and quilting accessories.

The Brother XM2701 suits beginners and home sewers who want common utility stitches, including blind hem, zigzag, and stretch options. Skip it if you specifically need a large stitch library or alphanumeric stitches.

The Brother GX37 suits someone who prefers choosing from stitches printed on the machine and using a dial. It offers 37 utility and decorative stitches; skip it if you want an LCD display or a broader stitch selection.

The Brother CS7000X is a strong fit for someone who sews quilts or wants more stitch variety, with utility, decorative, heirloom, and quilting functions. Its wide table, 10 sewing feet, and quilt guide also suit larger projects; skip it if those extras and a computerized display aren’t useful to you.

The Brother XR9550 suits a sewer who wants a large selection, including alphanumeric stitches, plus an LCD for choosing stitches and settings. Its wide table and included quilting feet support larger projects; skip it if you’ll use only basic utility stitches.

How should you set up and care for a stitch?

Set up the machine with the correct threading, needle, stitch setting, and presser foot for the task. Place a scrap under the foot, lower the needle into the fabric, and sew a short sample before moving to your project.

Start with the stitch width and length in the manual, then adjust one setting at a time. This makes it easier to see what changed and avoids wasting fabric while you learn the controls.

After sewing, remove lint from the areas named in your manual and replace a bent or damaged needle. Don’t pull the fabric through the machine while stitching, since that can affect the feed and stitch line.

What common stitch mistakes should you avoid?

The most common mistakes are choosing a stitch that can’t flex with the fabric, sewing too close to an edge, and skipping a sample seam. A stitch chart and a small scrap can prevent many avoidable problems.

Don’t use a straight stitch for a seam that must stretch, such as a knit garment seam. Choose a stretch stitch or narrow zigzag, then test the seam with a gentle pull.

Avoid changing thread tension, stitch width, and stitch length all at once when a seam looks wrong. Rethread first, check the needle, and adjust one setting at a time while following the manual.

Which sewing machine stitch should you choose?

Pick a straight stitch for most woven seams, zigzag or overcasting for raw edges, and a stretch stitch or narrow zigzag for knits. Choose blind hem for a discreet finish, buttonhole for a button opening, and decorative stitches when you want visible detail.

For the right types of sewing machine stitches, use the machine’s chart to identify the options, test your settings on a fabric scrap, and match the stitch to the job. Start with a straight seam, then add other stitch types as your projects need them.

Frequently asked questions

What is the most common sewing machine stitch?

The straight stitch is the most common sewing machine stitch. Use it for most seams, topstitching, and simple repairs on woven fabric.

Set the stitch length for the fabric and task, then sew a test line on a scrap before working on the finished piece.

Which sewing machine stitch is best for stretchy fabric?

A stretch stitch or narrow zigzag can flex with knit fabric, so the seam is less likely to pop when pulled. Check your machine manual for the stretch stitch symbol and settings.

Test on a scrap of the same fabric, since the best width and length vary by material.

What stitch should I use to finish raw edges?

Use a zigzag stitch to help keep raw woven edges from fraying. Sew close to the fabric edge without letting the needle fall beyond it, or fold the edge first for a cleaner finish.

An overcasting stitch and suitable foot can also wrap the edge.

Do all sewing machines have the same stitches?

No. Basic machines often offer straight, zigzag, and a few utility stitches, while other models add stretch, blind hem, decorative, and buttonhole options.

Stitch names and symbols vary, so check your manual and the stitch chart on your machine before sewing.